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Movie:WAVEWATCH III model run Jun 2008 to AUG 2008 + (WAVEWATCH III^TM is the third generation o … WAVEWATCH III^TM is the third generation of wave models designed by NOAA and has significant improvements from previous generations of this model and other similar models. As stated by NOAA and the developers of WAVEWATCH III^TM; “WAVEWATCH III^TM solves the random phase spectral action density balance equation for wavenumber-direction spectra.” (NOAA website) This allows the model to evolve and follow swell patterns as they are generated and travel throughout the world’s oceans based on the conservative nature of energy in gravity driven ocean swell. Additionally, in the most recent version of WAVEWATCH III^TM there are options allowing for shallow water (surf zone) physics. At this stage they are fairly crude but usable.is stage they are fairly crude but usable.)
Movie:WAVEWATCH III model run Dec 2007 to Feb 2008 + (WAVEWATCH III^TM is the third generation o … WAVEWATCH III^TM is the third generation of wave models designed by NOAA and has significant improvements from previous generations of this model and other similar models. As stated by NOAA and the developers of WAVEWATCH III^TM; “WAVEWATCH III^TM solves the random phase spectral action density balance equation for wavenumber-direction spectra.” (NOAA website) This allows the model to evolve and follow swell patterns as they are generated and travel throughout the world’s oceans based on the conservative nature of energy in gravity driven ocean swell. Additionally, in the most recent version of WAVEWATCH III^TM there are options allowing for shallow water (surf zone) physics. At this stage they are fairly crude but usable.is stage they are fairly crude but usable.)
Movie:Global Wave Power 2012 + (Wave power, P, is calculated as a function … Wave power, P, is calculated as a function of the significant wave height, Hs and wave period T (the time to complete one complete wave cycle):P=(ρg^2 )/64π H_s^2 Tρ = density of sea water, (on average 1050 kg/m3)g=gravitational constant, (9.81m/s2)π = 3.14ravitational constant, (9.81m/s2) π = 3.14)
Movie:Coastal Sediment Reworking + (With the inclusion of coastal processes the fluvial sediment becomes less stratified than when coastal processes that result in mixing aren't present.)

(With the inclusion of coastal processes the fluvial sediment becomes les)

Movie:Longshore Sediment Deposition + (Without the effects of coastal processes that result sediment mixing the fluvial sediment deposition remains highly stratified.)
Movie:Wave height in Wax Lake during Rita + (the definition of 'significant wave height' is as follows: the significant wave height (often annotated as Hs) is defined as the mean wave height (the distance from wave trough to wave crest) of the highest third of the waves.)
Movie:Wave height in vegetated Wax Lake during Rita + (the definition of 'significant wave height' is as follows: the significant wave height (often annotated as Hs) is defined as the mean wave height (the distance from wave trough to wave crest) of the highest third of the waves.)
Movie:Wave heights during hurricane Katrina 2005 + (wave height, H, as the distance between th … wave height, H, as the distance between the wave crest and trough. Note that waves come in fields containing a large variety of heights; the wave height distribution. To describe the wave field with a single number scientists use the ‘Significant Wave Height’. The Significant Wave Height Hs, is the mean wave height of the one-third highest waves in the wave field. This measure is the closest to what a sailor on a ship would estimate as ‘the average wave height’. Apparently our eyes are drawn to see the larger waves. This movie shows the significant wave height every 3 hours, for theweek that the Katrina hurricane developed in the Caribbean and made landfall in New Orleans in the USA.d made landfall in New Orleans in the USA.)