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XBeach Applied to Coral Reef
XBeach is a coastal morpho-dynamics model that predicts sediment transport and morphology under the influence of wave dynamics. Xbeach is designed to model coastal changes under the influence of storms and hurricanes and helps assess coastal protection measures. Dr. van Dongeren, one of the core model developers, successfully applied XBeach to investigate longwave dynamics at a remote fringing coral reef in West-Australia. The simulations showed that on the reef platform 50% of the bed shear stresses originates from infragravity waves. More...

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