coastal sediment transport, coastal evolution,
Matlab
sediment flux depends on three components: two onshore-directed terms (wave asymmetry and wave streaming) and an offshore-directed slope term. The cross-shore sediment transport formulation defines a dynamic equilibrium profile and, by perturbing about this steady-state profile, we present an advection-diffusion formula for profile evolution. Morphodynamic Péclet analysis suggests that the shoreface is diffusionally dominated. Using this depth-dependent characteristic diffusivity timescale, we distinguish a morphodynamic depth of closure for a given time envelope. Even though wave-driven sediment transport can (and will) occur at deeper depths, the rate of morphologic bed changes in response to shoreline change becomes increasingly slow below this morphodynamic closure depth.
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