Property:Theory movie
From CSDMS
This is a property of type Text.
O
Tsunami is a Japanese word, meaning 'harbor wave'. Japan is affected by tsunamis relatively frequently, because it is located near a plate subduction zone. The Pacific Plate subducts beneath Japan at a very high rate of ~8cm/year. The process of thrust faulting at these plate boundaries is associated with earthquakes and subsea oceanfloor displacements that cause tsunamis.
A magnitude 8.9/9.0 earthquake happened on March 11th, 2011. This was the 5th largest earthquake worldwide since 1900. According to the U.S. Geological Survey (USGS), the earthquake occurred at a depth of 24.4 kilometers beneath the seafloor. The March 11 earthquake was preceded by a series of large foreshocks on March 9, including an M7.2 event, and many aftershocks keep rattling Japan in the days after.
A tsunami can travel at a speed of 800km/hr in the deep ocean, but with very long wave length (about 15 min). When such a wave reaches shallower water nearshore, the wave length decreases, because its speed decreases. Then the backend of the wave starts catching up with the front end and and its amplitude starts to increase dramatically. The observations for the March 11th tsunami wave height when hitting the shoreline near Sendai are about 4m. At some localities where the water was focused due to the funneling action of the bays the wave reached a height of 7.3 m. It hit the shore about 1 hour and 10 minutes after the earthquake shock was recorded.
The tsunami traveled rapidly through the Pacific Ocean and reached Hawai after 8 hours and California after 11 hours, generating waves as high as 1.5-2 m there. +
T
Tsunami is a Japanese word, meaning 'harbor wave'. Japan is affected by tsunamis relatively frequently, because it is located near a plate subduction zone. The Pacific Plate subducts beneath Japan at a very high rate of ~8cm/year. The process of thrust faulting at these plate boundaries is associated with earthquakes and subsea oceanfloor displacements that cause tsunamis.
A magnitude 8.9/9.0 earthquake happened on March 11th, 2011. This was the 5th largest earthquake worldwide since 1900.
A tsunami can travel at a speed of 800km/hr in the deep ocean, but with very long wave length (about 15 min). When such a wave reaches shallower water nearshore, the wave length decreases, because its speed decreases. Then the backend of the wave starts catching up with the front end and and its amplitude starts to increase dramatically. The observations for the March 11th tsunami wave height when hitting the shoreline near Sendai are about 4m. It hit the shore about 1 hour and 10 minutes after the earthquake shock was recorded. +
W
WAVEWATCH III^TM is the third generation of wave models designed by NOAA and has significant improvements from previous generations of this model and other similar models. As stated by NOAA and the developers of WAVEWATCH IIITM; “WAVEWATCH III^TM solves the random phase spectral action density balance equation for wavenumber-direction spectra.” (NOAA website) This allows the model to evolve and follow swell patterns as they are generated and travel throughout the world’s oceans based on the conservative nature of energy in gravity driven ocean swell. Additionally, in the most recent version of WAVEWATCH III^TM there are options allowing for shallow water (surf zone) physics. At this stage they are fairly crude but usable. +
WAVEWATCH III^TM is the third generation of wave models designed by NOAA and has significant improvements from previous generations of this model and other similar models. As stated by NOAA and the developers of WAVEWATCH III^TM; “WAVEWATCH III^TM solves the random phase spectral action density balance equation for wavenumber-direction spectra.” (NOAA website) This allows the model to evolve and follow swell patterns as they are generated and travel throughout the world’s oceans based on the conservative nature of energy in gravity driven ocean swell. Additionally, in the most recent version of WAVEWATCH III^TM there are options allowing for shallow water (surf zone) physics. At this stage they are fairly crude but usable. +
WAVEWATCH III^TM is the third generation of wave models designed by NOAA and has significant improvements from previous generations of this model and other similar models. As stated by NOAA and the developers of WAVEWATCH III^TM; “WAVEWATCH III^TM solves the random phase spectral action density balance equation for wavenumber-direction spectra.” (NOAA website) This allows the model to evolve and follow swell patterns as they are generated and travel throughout the world’s oceans based on the conservative nature of energy in gravity driven ocean swell. Additionally, in the most recent version of WAVEWATCH III^TM there are options allowing for shallow water (surf zone) physics. At this stage they are fairly crude but usable. +
WAVEWATCH III^TM is the third generation of wave models designed by NOAA and has significant improvements from previous generations of this model and other similar models. As stated by NOAA and the developers of WAVEWATCH III^TM; “WAVEWATCH III^TM solves the random phase spectral action density balance equation for wavenumber-direction spectra.” (NOAA website) This allows the model to evolve and follow swell patterns as they are generated and travel throughout the world’s oceans based on the conservative nature of energy in gravity driven ocean swell. Additionally, in the most recent version of WAVEWATCH III^TM there are options allowing for shallow water (surf zone) physics. At this stage they are fairly crude but usable. +
WAVEWATCH III^TM is the third generation of wave models designed by NOAA and has significant improvements from previous generations of this model and other similar models. As stated by NOAA and the developers of WAVEWATCH III^TM; “WAVEWATCH III^TM solves the random phase spectral action density balance equation for wavenumber-direction spectra.” (NOAA website) This allows the model to evolve and follow swell patterns as they are generated and travel throughout the world’s oceans based on the conservative nature of energy in gravity driven ocean swell. Additionally, in the most recent version of WAVEWATCH III^TM there are options allowing for shallow water (surf zone) physics. At this stage they are fairly crude but usable. +
G
Wave power, P, is calculated as a function of the significant wave height, Hs and wave period T (the time to complete one complete wave cycle):
P=(ρg^2 )/64π H_s^2 T
ρ = density of sea water, (on average 1050 kg/m3)
g=gravitational constant, (9.81m/s2)
π = 3.14 +
C
With the inclusion of coastal processes the fluvial sediment becomes less stratified than when coastal processes that result in mixing aren't present. +
L
Without the effects of coastal processes that result sediment mixing the fluvial sediment deposition remains highly stratified. +
W
the definition of 'significant wave height' is as follows: the significant wave height (often annotated as Hs) is defined as the mean wave height (the distance from wave trough to wave crest) of the highest third of the waves. +
the definition of 'significant wave height' is as follows: the significant wave height (often annotated as Hs) is defined as the mean wave height (the distance from wave trough to wave crest) of the highest third of the waves. +
wave height, H, as the distance between the wave crest and trough.
Note that waves come in fields containing a large variety of heights; the wave height distribution. To describe the wave field with a single number scientists use the ‘Significant Wave Height’. The Significant Wave Height Hs, is the mean wave height of the one-third highest waves in the wave field. This measure is the closest to what a sailor on a ship would estimate as ‘the average wave height’. Apparently our eyes are drawn to see the larger waves. This movie shows the significant wave height every 3 hours, for theweek that the Katrina hurricane developed in the Caribbean and made landfall in New Orleans in the USA. +
